At a glance
- Fes el-Bali, the old medina, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world.
- See the Bou Inania and Al-Attarine madrasas, the Chouara tannery and Place Seffarine on your first day.
- Hire a licensed guide for the first walk; the lanes are a maze.
- Give the city two full nights, plus a day trip to Volubilis and Meknes if you can.
- Visit the tannery terraces in the morning, when the light and the colors are best.
Most of the best things to do in Fes are inside Fes el-Bali, the old walled medina founded in the 9th century and listed by UNESCO since 1981. Cars cannot enter its lanes, so donkeys and handcarts still carry goods to the workshops, and much of the city works as it has for centuries. Here is how we show it to our guests.
The madrasas
The Bou Inania Madrasa, built by the Marinid sultan Abu Inan in the 1350s, is one of the few religious buildings in Fes open to non-Muslims. Its courtyard of carved cedar, stucco and zellige is extraordinary. The smaller Al-Attarine Madrasa, near the spice market, is just as fine and usually quieter.
Al-Qarawiyyin and the heart of the medina
Founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri, Al-Qarawiyyin is often described as the oldest continuously operating university in the world. Non-Muslims cannot enter the mosque, but you can look into its courtyard from the doorways. Nearby, the Nejjarine fountain and the Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts are worth half an hour.
The tanneries and the workshops
The Chouara tannery has worked in roughly the same way since medieval times, with hides soaked in stone vats of lime and natural dyes. Watch from the terraces of the surrounding leather shops; they will hand you a sprig of mint for the smell. Then walk to Place Seffarine, where coppersmiths hammer pots and trays in the open air, and look for the weavers, potters and leatherworkers in the lanes around it.
Tip
Go to the tannery between 9 and 11 in the morning. The vats are full, the workers are busy and the sun lights the colors from above.
Cars cannot enter its lanes, so much of the city works as it has for centuries.
Fes el-Jdid and the Mellah
The "new" Fes was built by the Marinids in the 13th century. See the gilded brass doors of the Royal Palace, walk through the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter with its wooden balconies, and visit the restored Ibn Danan synagogue.
Want to see Fes with a guide who grew up there?
We book licensed local guides, riads inside the medina and the workshops most visitors never find.
The views and the gates
Enter the medina through Bab Bou Jeloud, the blue-tiled gate built in 1913. At sunset, drive up to the Marinid Tombs on the hill north of the city for a view over the whole medina as the calls to prayer begin.
A day trip to Volubilis and Meknes
An hour from Fes, Volubilis is the best-preserved Roman site in Morocco, with mosaic floors still in place. Combine it with the holy town of Moulay Idriss and the imperial city of Meknes, known for its monumental gate, Bab Mansour.
How long to stay
Two full nights is the minimum, three if you add Volubilis. Fes fits naturally into our 10-day Morocco itinerary, and our piece on a morning with a Fes calligrapher shows another side of the city. For history across the country, see historical sites in Morocco.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do you need in Fes?
Two full nights at least, three if you want to add a day trip to Volubilis and Meknes.
Do I need a guide in Fes?
For your first walk through the medina, yes. The lanes are a maze, and a licensed guide saves time and explains what you are seeing.
Can non-Muslims visit Al-Qarawiyyin?
Non-Muslims cannot enter the mosque, but you can look into the courtyard from the doorways. The Bou Inania Madrasa is open to all visitors.
What is the best time to visit the Chouara tannery?
Mid-morning, roughly 9 to 11, when the vats are in use and the light is good.
Is Fes safe for tourists?
Yes. Expect some persistent unofficial guides near the gates; a polite but firm no thank you is enough.
Is Fes or Marrakech better?
They are different. Fes is older, quieter and more traditional; Marrakech is livelier and more polished. Most first trips include both.
How far is Fes from the Sahara?
About seven to eight hours by road to Merzouga, through the Middle Atlas.
